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A ball peen hammer is overkill. Use a drift punch. See picture.I agree. The punch trick is a lot classier AND less likely to give disastrous results.
Quote from: Grizzly on August 31, 2017, 02:45:41 PMA ball peen hammer is overkill. Use a drift punch. See picture.I agree. The punch trick is a lot classier AND less likely to give disastrous results.Tom: How does that reduce 'noise' on a CX-12? (the slide shown).Elizabeth (scotty)
Quote from: Scotty on August 31, 2017, 03:49:09 PMQuote from: Grizzly on August 31, 2017, 02:45:41 PMA ball peen hammer is overkill. Use a drift punch. See picture.I agree. The punch trick is a lot classier AND less likely to give disastrous results.Tom: How does that reduce 'noise' on a CX-12? (the slide shown).Elizabeth (scotty)It lessens the side-to-side play in the slide, reducing the clacking noise.One thing to do after "peening" the slide: file/sand the bumps smooth so they don't dig in. You should also file/sand the flat part of the slide to restore its smoothness. IOW, de-burr the whole thing.I only did this to one of my several CX 12s, and can't remember which one. It works, but ultimately it was a non-issue for me. I don't slap the slide around when I play.Not original with me. I think I got the technique from Brendan Power. (Don't quote me.)Tom
Wow! That drift punch method looks much more precise and easier to control than tapping with a ball peen hammer.Le Chef: The slide fits into a track or groove in the mouthpiece assembly. There is some empty space between the edge of the slice and the edge of the groove. If the empty space is a bit too big, the slide can have some side to side motion, and rattle from side to side. Not much, maybe a few thousandths of an inch. Maybe a hundredth of an inch. Tapping the punch into the slide, near the edge of the slide,, squeezes some metal sideways. Imagine having a thick layer of bread dough on a table top. When you push your fist into the dough near the edge of the layer, the dough spreads out a little wider around your fist. Poking the punch into the metal near the edge of the slide spreads the metal horizontally, and the slide becomes wider next to the hole. When you put the slide back into the track or groove in the mouthpiece assembly, there is less space between the slide and the edge of the groove. The slide has less room to rattle sideways. I thought my description was pretty good. I hope you think so too. Noise from slide motion can also be caused by worn or missing bumpers. That is a completely different type of motion. Curing the problem of bad bumpers first might silence the slide just fine. If new bumpers do no silence the slide, try the other approach with the drift punch. I ain't no expert. I'm just doing my best.
Dimpling the slide widens it. Please explain how that has anything to do with noise. As it twere I don't believe in dimpling slides. For one thing if you can rock the slide sideways after applying warm moist air by mouth, you can usually free a stuck slide. And if you still can't free the slide, placing the chromo face down in 1/4" (6mm) of water in a flat dish will allow water to get around the slide's sides and that will free the slide. Bashing against a table top is a no no. Many time a multiple slide assembly will have a U channel. It pays to 'break' or ease the TOP edge of the slide so that it mates with the inside rounded corner of the U channel. It is rounded when it is stamped. Slides are also stamped and the top corners are usually too sharp. Round them off. Noise is caused by striking something. That something has to be adjusted. Usually bumpers. Sometimes foam on the underside of a CX12 slide. Sometimes it's the spring. Allowing too much slide movement OR clattering upon coiling and recoiling. Many videos and comments from so called established players, technicians, and in general famous people are taken as gospel. This can be dangerous. sm0joe
Dimpling the slide widens it. Please explain how that has anything to do with noise. As it twere I don't believe in dimpling slides. For one thing if you can rock the slide sideways after applying warm moist air by mouth, you can usually free a stuck slide. And if you still can't free the slide, placing the chromo face down in 1/4" (6mm) of water in a flat dish .... Bashing against a table top is a no no. Many time a multiple slide assembly will have a U channel. It pays to 'break' or ease the TOP edge of the slide so that it mates with the inside rounded corner of the U channel. It is rounded when it is stamped. Slides are also stamped and the top corners are usually too sharp. Round them off. Noise is caused by striking something. That something has to be adjusted. Usually bumpers. sm0joe
Quote from: smojoe on September 01, 2017, 01:18:11 AMDimpling the slide widens it. Please explain how that has anything to do with noise.Nah, the dimples don't do nothin for the noise; just minimizes the "up and down play" The only thing I ever found to handle the clicking and clacking was rubber grommets that were bigger that the standard ones but not big enough to bind when the mouth piece is tightened.
Dimpling the slide widens it. Please explain how that has anything to do with noise.
... It also results in minor imperfections that only fussy SlideMeisters complain about.
Quote from: SlideMeister on September 01, 2017, 12:38:10 PM... It also results in minor imperfections that only fussy SlideMeisters complain about. Like who? Don't answer that.